Before you start making your moisturizer, it’s helpful to know a few basics about skincare. Moisturizers fall into three basic categories, each with its unique uses and benefits, though ingredients from each category can team up. You’ll notice that several examples fall under more than one category, able to perform double, and even triple, skincare duties.
- Emollients work by forming a layer, or film, on top of the skin and trapping moisture, so it doesn’t simply evaporate. They tend to be powerful hydrators that allow for continuous moisturizing, helping to soften and soothe dry, irritated skin. Plant-based emollients include avocado oil, camellia seed oil, castor oil, coconut oil, corn oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, squalene, sunflower oil, and soy oil.
- Humectants help support supple, hydrated skin by attracting and retaining moisture in the skin’s upper layer. Glycerin is perhaps the best known humectant; it can be naturally sourced from plant oils, and is easily absorbed into the skin. Other humectants include agave nectar, aloe vera, honey, hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, panthenol, algae and seaweed.
- Occlusives create a barrier on top of the skin, helping to seal in moisture and prevent water loss from the skin. Though petroleum jelly is often used as an example, natural occlusives include argan oil, beeswax, castor oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, jojoba oil, lanolin, olive oil, and sesame oil.
Body Butters vs. Creams & Lotions
Though hand and body butters, lotions, and creams all share a primary job duty – moisturizing – these terms are often incorrectly used interchangeably. Here’s a brief overview of their differences.
Butters nourish and protect skin. Great for dry, cracked, or sensitive skin that needs protection from cold air, low humidity, and chafing winds. Body butters often contain butters and oils like cocoa butter, coconut oil, and avocado oil. They contain little to no water, making them thicker and more concentrated than creams. You can use body butter on hands and rougher spots, like the heels of your foot, elbows, or knees.
Creams contain water and are usually whipped or mixed well, making them lighter and quicker to absorb than butters. Body creams also often contain aloe vera, shea butter, and plant extracts.
Lotions are the lightest of the three, similar to creams, yet have a higher water content and fewer oil-based occlusives. Lotions are easy to spread and absorb well, but do not protect the skin like body butters.
With these distinctions in mind, the ideal winter hand moisturizer will contain humectants that will draw moisture to your skin, and emollients and occlusives that will lock that moisture in: Our DIY Hand & Body Butter! Read on for the recipe, and instructions, and to learn more about the ingredients and possible substitutions.
About the Ingredients & Substitutions
Shea Butter. A beloved ingredient in skin care products for centuries, this superfood for skin is naturally high in essential fatty acids, Vitamins E, D, A, plus many minerals. As an emollient, it locks moisture into the skin; as an humectant, it continues to draw more moisture. It soothes inflammation and balances the skin as it hydrates. You could substitute half of the shea butter for 1/8 cup cocoa butter or coconut oil.
Jojoba Oil. Its waxy structure and vitamin E content can help soothe dry skin and promote a healthy appearance, as well as help reduce redness and swelling. Jojoba oil can boost collagen production, which can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. An ideal carrier oil for essential oils, it’s stable, absorbs quickly, doesn’t evaporate as quickly as other moisturizers, and has no distinguishing aroma of its own. For a big hydration boost, substitute half the jojoba with plant-derived glycerin. You could substitute almond oil, but with its moderate comedogenic rating, it might not be the best choice for acne-prone skin. Be sure to research the appropriateness of your oil to your skin type needs.
Coconut Oil. Conditions and moisturizes your skin with powerful fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. Why use unrefined coconut oil? While both refined and unrefined coconut oils have moisturizing fatty acids (triglycerides), unrefined coconut oil has a higher content of phytonutrients, which are the compounds produced by plants to help protect them from environmental threats, such as antioxidants. People prone to acne should avoid using coconut oil on their shoulders, back and face.
Beeswax Pellets. Beeswax will keep your butter from melting at room temperature, but it also has anti-aging, moisturizing, protective, and anti-inflammatory skin benefits. We recommend using pellets because they’re easy to measure and they melt quickly and uniformly. Look for ones that are certified organic and free from chemicals, preservatives, and other additives, as they are going on your skin. Going vegan? You can substitute organic carnauba wax (a.k.a. Brazil or palm wax), but since carnauba is so much harder than beeswax, try replacing the required amount of beeswax with a mix of half carnauba wax, half soft plant oil (such as coconut oil).
Aura Cacia Essential Oils. Essential oils have an effect on your body and mind, so select the ones you want to use in your moisturizers with care. Oils can be combined to compound the qualities you wish to procure. Keep in mind, because Aura Cacia Essential Oils are so pure, just a little goes a long way; while a few drops may provide the effects you desire, a few too many drops might irritate the senses. Always increase the amount of essential oils in your body care recipes in small increments. To help you select the one(s) which may best suit your needs, here are twelve of our most popular oils used in bodycare products.
- Balsam Fir – Reminiscent of the deep woods and holiday festivities. Opens and invigorate the spirit.
- Blood Orange – Tangy, fresh fragrance that brightens the mood. Revitalizes and centers the mind.
- Chamomile – Bedtime bliss for those suffering with insomnia. Helps relieve itchy skin.
- Eucalyptus – Soothes nervous tension. Helps relax and rejuvenate sore muscles. Deodorizes.
- Frankincense – Supports joint function and a youthful appearance.
- Geranium – Softly floral, enticingly fresh. Gaining popularity, thanks to its skin-soothing qualities.
- Lavender – Soothing, calming and restorative. Boosts positive thinking.
- Mind Guide – Inspiration and focus, featuring rosemary, peppermint and vetiver.
- Neroli – Intensely floral with a citrusy tang. Soothes, while hinting of romance and the exotic.
- Patchouli – Calms and uplifts. Deodorizes with its woodsy scent.
- Pillow Potion – Relaxing blend, perfect for bedroom and pillow talk.
- Ylang Ylang – Floral delight. Uplifts mood and supports healthy, balanced skin.
Child & Pet Safety
Your homemade moisturizers may not contain synthetic ingredients and chemicals, but remember, even all-natural, plant-based ingredients can be harmful if not used properly or if ingested. Keep curious kids and pets safe by keeping all ingredients and your hand and body butters out of reach.